The folks are in town and so we headed south to the Willamette Valley outside of Portland for some delicious vino. We took a tour of Domaine Drouhin, started by the famed Burgundy producer/family/brand Joseph Drouhin. I had always assumed that they were huge commercial producer, ala Georges Dubeouf to Beaujolais. Okay, so Burgundy is unique, with all those vineyards designations and the Drouhin group produces wines at many levels (price points and quality), so my assumptions may be partly true. Mark, our tour guide, tells us that at that location they only irrigate sparingly (vines under 3 years old), don’t use pesticides, replant from their own vines and don’t use commercial yeasts. Can this be true?
The tour ended in a tasting with them pairing an average Cote-du-Beaune Villages with their Oregon Pinot Noir. Guess who won? Good marketing or mark of superiority? Probably a bit of both. It was pretty good stuff, although at $45+ out of my daily drinker and “nice meal with friends” categories and into my special occasion bracket. Was it special occasion good? Not sure, but their property is beautiful and I recommend a visit.
On our way back we stopped at Vinopolis in Portland and I picked up a bottle of Evesham Wood Pinot Noir, Tempranillo Rose and Pinot Gris/Gewurtraminer blend. According to the clerk Evesham Wood does use native yeasts but only in the pinots. Who knows? I couldn’t verify this on their site (although they did talk a lot about trying to craft a wine that is unique to the region using sustainable and responsible agricultural practices). Is it important (native yeasts)? As a semi-informed consumer perhaps I should know more about this before writing whole wineries off, but the thought of a yeast designed in a factory to fabricate a flavor or characteristics of a wine does not appeal to me. “Yes, but it’s a Burgundy yeast!” Yes, but… I want Oregon Pinot’s to taste like Oregon- the weather, soil, yeast and all that creating a unique taste and experience. But, I can’t afford to taste Burgundy Pinots, not good ones, anyway. So, I can’t compare them. Should it matter? When looking for variety to please folks with different tastes, I think it does. A lot of people make whacky decisions as to why they do or do not buy things. For me, given a choice between two wines, each having been untasted, I will go for the one made with less manipulation involving machines and laboratories (if that information is even disclosed by the winemaker) and I will seek wines like these out.
We drank the Evesham Pinot that night and it was delicious, better than the entry level Drouhin and $20 less in price. In my opinion, both wineries seem to have the right ideas and goals when making wine and I hope more wineries approach it this way, and if they already are, let the public know about it.



